Great Wine Route: Piedmont

The name Piedmont literally means ‘at the foot of the mountains’ and the vine-clad hills that dominate the landscape here pay silent witness to its history of noble viticulture, while hilltop hamlets and fortified castles such as Barolo, Barbaresco, Cherasco and many others are a living memory to its feudal past.

To get a feel for the region, read Cesare Pavese’s short stories and in particular his novel, ‘The Moon and the Bonfires’. This is set in the villages of Canelli, S. Stefano Belbo and Dogliani, in not-so-distant times, when life was governed by the seasons, the hard toil of the land and its produce.

In contrast to other Italian regions, Piedmont has retained a genuine rural culture and the Piedmontese are closely tied to their rural traditions: dairy farming from which they produce wonderful cheeses such as Robbiola, Toma and Castelmagno, hazelnut plantations, truffles and of course vineyards.

Most recently the Piedmontese have capitalized on winemaking. As one producer commented, in the past decade many farmers have made their fortune from the precious ‘petrolio rosso’, referring to the wine as ‘red petrol’. Today Piedmont produces more than three million hectoliters of wine of which more than half is DOC and DOCG quality. Its main grape varieties include Moscato, Barbera, Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, Arneis, Grignolino, Brachetto, Gattinara, Cortese and Freisa.

Wine lovers visiting Piedmont today will also be surprised by a thriving culinary scene, based on the fresh ingredients of the area. Eating out is a common pastime and the region’s wine producers do a lot of their socializing at the local restaurants.

One of the joys of touring Piedmont is visiting its wineries. Most wineries are family run and welcome visitors to their vineyards, the winery and tastings. These are usually free, but do call ahead, especially to smaller wineries.

The average winery has about 8-15ha of vines and a production of between 50,000 and 100,000 bottles. Land is expensive and often divided into small lots. According to Dezzani producer in Cocconato, it took him 13 years to buy the 6ha of vines around his winery, which over the years had been divided into 25 individual lots belonging to 25 different farmers.

The best way to visit Piedmont is to fly to its capital city, Turin (Ryanair flies from Stanstead), and hire a car. From there it’s a short drive to wine producing areas such as Monferrato, Roero and the Langhe. However, to really enjoy the region’s rolling landscapes, charming country retreats, excellent cuisine one needs a minimum of four days. What follows is just one possible itinerary for a short break in the region.



DAY ONE
From Turin start with a short drive to Cocconato in the Monferrato area, above the town of Asti, known as Barbera country. Cocconato is a quaint old town with an excellent cheese shop and butcher in the main square. Its two main producers are Dezzani and Bava. The medieval ‘Locanda Martelletti’ is a good stop-over and has a good restaurant.

A few kilometers east of Cocconato is Albugnano with its much acclaimed abbey and cloister, Abbazia di Santa Maria di Vezzolano. South of Cocconato, half way towards Asti is Castell’Alfero, which for those interested in barrel making has one of Italy’s top barrel-makers ‘Gamba’.

Driving west is Vignale Monferrato and a visit to Il Mongetto, a shop on the main piazza, which sells a wonderful selection of artisanal foods, makes for a worthwhile detour. Mongetto also own a comfortable country villa and rent large sized rooms, serve excellent home cooking and their own wines.

Asti is worth a visit, especially the Saturday market and its medieval costumed Palio, held every September. It is well linked to Alba, which can be reached in 30 minutes via the superstarada.

DAY TWO

Drive southwest to Rocchetta Tanaro, which takes its name from the river Tanaro. Visit Braida’s winery, famous for being one of the first wineries to age their Barbera in barrique. Stay at Marchese Incisa’s Bed&Breakfast, La Corte Chiusa, have a meal at Beppe Bologna’s trattoria and buy some ‘lingue di suocera’ from the baker Mario Fongo.

Rochetta’s well located to move further south to Nizza Monferrato where the winery Bersano has an excellent museum of old country winemaking equipment and historic prints.

Drive further south and stop at Canelli to visit Coppo’s historic cellars and up the windy hill with its Moscato vines to S. Stefano Belbo for magnificent views and a refreshing glass of Moscato from Ca’D’Gal’s small winery. If you want to enjoy a working winery experience this is the place to stay.

For those into pampering, half way up the hill is Relais San Maurizio, a tastefully restored ex 17th century monastery, set in a park. It offers relaxed luxury including a fitness center in case you over-indulge sampling its in-house restaurant, set in the spectacular cellars of the monastery.

DAY THREE

Drive to Alba, famed for October’s white truffle fair. It’s a nice town with plenty of food shops, winebars and a Saturday market. Pio Cesare’s historic cellars based in the center of Alba are certainly worth a visit.
You can opt to stay at the Locanda del Pilone, just outside Alba, which offers classy comfort and excellent food. From here it is possible to visit the areas of Canale in the Roero area, famous for its white Arneis wines. All’Enoteca is one of the best restaurants in the area.

Neive, Barbaresco and Treiso lie to the east of Alba, a visit to the producers suggested deserves to be crowned with a dinner at the one star Michelin La Ciau del Tornavento, with its well-stocked cellar or Antinè whose young creative Chef Andrea Marino will regale you with a variation on traditional cuisine.

DAY FOUR

Barolo is only a short drive south of Alba but it is also a good base for touring the old medieval town of Cherasco, as well as the famed areas of La Morra, Monforte and Dogliani, further south. This is quite a concentrated area, and offers a wide choice of famed producers - known as the ‘Barolo Barons’.

In terms of places to stay, Gioco dell’Oca at the foot of Barolo serves incredible breakfasts with homemade cakes, breads and jams. Opposite is Terre da Vino, one of Piedmonts’ most high tech wineries, which owns 14 quality cooperatives throughout Piedmont. Its wines are good value for money.

Brezza’s historic cellars and a chat with Orsete Brezza over a glass of wine make for a good contrast. Cà San Ponzio Agriturismo is tucked away in Vergne above Barolo, opposite Vajra and rents out mountain bikes. Osteria Veglio and Trattoria della Posta are both highly recommended for lunch stops.

OPTIONAL ITINERARY

For those who wish to concentrate further on the Langhe area, the Dolcetto producing area is a must. Dogliani has recently revived its production of Dolcetto with quality driven wines, thanks to a group of highly dedicated, new-generation producers, especially, Anna Maria Abbona, San Fereolo and Pecchenino wieries. The production area fares between 350 and 600 metres and offers spectacular views of the Alps.

Another good reason to visit the area is to sample the family run Trattoria del Peso. Its old-fashioned charm and simplicity is a reminder of authentic Italian hospitality, which prides itself on traditional values and wholesome homemade recipes.



CONTACT DETAILS FOR PIEMONTE

LODGING (All prices are inclusive of breakfast. All rooms have their own en-suite private bathrooms)

Locanda Martelletti
Cocconato
Tel: 0141 907686
Fax: 0141 600033
www.casamartelletti.it
6 standard doubles - €90 and 3 suites €150 suite
Tasting menu €26

La Corte Chiusa
Rocchetta Tanaro
Tel +39.0141.644647 Fax +39.0141.644942
marchesi.incisa@lacortechiusa.it
4 standard doubles - €82

Dre´ Castè
Il Mongetto
Vignale Monferrato
Tel: 0142 933442
Fax: 0142 930714
e-mail: info@mongetto.it
www.mongetto.it
5 standard doubles with breakfast €56-€66
Tasting Menu €24

Azienda Agrituristica Ca’ D’Gal
Fraz Valdivilla
S. Stefano Belbo
Tel/Fax: 014 184-7103
alessandro.boido@virgilio.it
6 standard doubles from €55 - €70

Relais San Maurizio
Hotel Monastero
Località San Maurizio
S. Stefano Belbo
Tel: 0141 841900
Fax: 0141 843833
info@relaissanmaurizio.it
www.relaissamaurizio.it
32 rooms/suites from: standard €140-185, superior €195-240, junior €210–260, suite €265-320 Restaurant Giuido di Costigliole – Tasting menu €70

Locanda del Pilone,
Frazione Madonna di Como
Alba
Tel. 0173 366616
Fax: 0173 366606
locandadelpilone@locandadelipilone.com
www.locandadelpilone.com
4 standard doubles €145 and 2 junior suites €180
Tasting Menu €45

Cà San Ponzio
Frazione Vergne
Barolo
Tel: 0173 560510
Fax: 0173 650977
sanponzio@areacom.it
6 standard doubles €77.50 (also supply mountain bikes)

Il Gioco dell’Oca
12060 Barolo
Tel/Fax: 0173 56206
gioco-delloca@piemonte.com
6 standard doubles €60



EATING OUT

Trattoria del Peso,
Belvedere Langhe, Dogliani
Tel: 0173 743009 – 743008
Set menu week days €12,50 - Sundays €25- inclusive of Dolcetto wine. Open only at lunch

Trattoria I Bologna
Rocchetta Tanaro
Tel: 0141 644600
Fax: 0141 644197
Closed Tuesday
Set menu €36

La Ciau del Tornavento
Treiso
Tel: 0173 638333
Fax: 0173 638352
www.laciaudeltornavento.it
Closed Wednesday/Thursday lunch
Tasting Menu €55

Ristorante Antinè
Barbaresco
Tel: 0173 635294
Closed Wednesday
Tasting Menu €25,80 and €38,50

All’Enoteca di Davide Palluda
Canale
Tel/Fax 0173 95875
www.davidepalluda.it
info@davidepalluda.it
Tasting Menu €48,00

Enoclub Ristorante
Alba
Tel: 0173 33994
Closed Monday
Tasting Menu €30

Ristorante ‘Gener Neuv’
Asti
Tel: 0141 557270
www.generneuv.it
Tasting menu €60

Osteria Veglio
Fraz. Annunziata
La Morra
Tel/Fax: 0173 509341
Closed Tuesday/Wednesday lunch
Tasting Menu €32

Trattoria della Posta
Loc S. Anna
Monforte D’Alba
Tel: 0173 78120
Closed Thursday
Tasting Menu €


USEFUL ADDRESSES

Regional Cheese - Occelli Agrinatura
Farigliano
Tel: 0173 746411
www.occelli.it

Regional food products - Il Mongetto
Vignale Monferrato
Tel: 0142 933469
www.mongetto.it

Local Salame – Sandrone Franco
Barolo

Baker – Il Panate´ di Mario Fongo
Rochetta Tanaro

Barrel makers – Botti Gamba
Castell’Alfero
Tel: 0141 405930
bottigamba@bottigamba.com

Websites: www.turismolanga.it
www.langheroero.it



WINERIES


Cocconnato

Bava
Tel: 014 190-7083

Dezzani
Tel: 014 190-7236

Rocchetta Tanaro

Braida
Tel: 0141 644113

Nizza Monferrato

Bersano & Riccadonna Spa
Tel: 0141720211

Barbaresco

Moccagatta
Tel: 0173 635145

Albino Rocca
Tel: 0173 635145

Produttori del Barbaresco
Tel: 0173 635139

Canelli

Coppo
0141 823246

S. Stefano Belbo

Ca’ d’Gal
Fraz Valdivilla
Tel: 0141 84710

Costigliole D’Asti

Cascina Castle’t
Tel: 0141 966651

Alba (town center)
Pio Cesare
Tel: 0173 440386

Canale

Cornarea
Tel: 0173 65636

Deltetto
Tel: 0173 979383

Treiso

Cantina Vignaioli “Elvio Pertinace”
Tel : 0173 – 442238

Barolo

Vajro
Tel: 0173 56257

Brezza
Tel: 0173 56354

Marchesi di Barolo
Tel 0173 564400

Rinaldi
Tel: 0173 56156

Terre da Vino,
Tel: 0173 564611

Monforte D’Alba

Poderi Aldo Conterno
Tel: 0173 78150

La Morra

Gianni Voerzio
Tel: 0173 509194

Mauro Molino
Tel: 0173 50814

Elio Altare
Tel: 0173 50835

Dogliani

San Fereolo
Tel: 0173 742075

Pecchenino
Tel: 0173 70686

Anna Maria Abbona
Farigliano
Tel: 0173 797228

PIEDMONTESE REGIONAL FOODS

Ravioli del Plin – very small hand made pasta filled with veal, egg and cheese.
Agnolotti Piemontesi – square hand made pasta filled pasta with rabbit, veal, pork and some cabbage
Tajarin con Tartufo o Ragù – thin handmade tagliolini with truffle or meat sauce
Vitello Tonnato- thinly cut rosy veal with a tuna fish, anchovy and caper mayonnaise
Bagna Cauda – hot olive oil with a paste of anchovies, garlic and a small quantity of milk, to be used as a dip for seasonal raw vegetables, such as bell-peppers, artichoke, fennel etc.
Fonduta di Toma con uovo e tartufo – Fondu of cheese with a poached egg and plenty of white truffle shavings
Risotto al Barolo – risotto cooked with Barolo wine
Crudo di Vitella delle Langhe battuta col coltello- finely chopped lean, raw veal, seasoned with salt, pepper, lemon juice and olive oil. Optional addition clove of garlic.
Formaggi con Cugnà d’Uva Moscato – mixed cheeses accompanied with a compot made of cooked most and seasonal fruit.