I never cease to be amazed by the incredible diversity that Italy unfolds travelling through its twenty regions of production, each one portraying a unique wealth of history, culture and traditions.
If the northwest of Italy offers one of the most exciting wine zones it is thanks to Piemonte. Recently I visited the area of Roero in Piemonte, renown for its excellent wines and outstanding local food. Far too often when one thinks of Piemonte one focuses on the better-known areas such as the Langhe, home to Barolo. Roero boarders with the Langhe and a small part of the Langhe actually overlaps part of the Roero which also produces a fine range of Nebbiolo wines, (the grape used in Barolo, Barbaresco and of course the newer Roero docg), as well as Barbera, and the white Arneis variety, in addition to a number of other lesser known white and red varieties.
The territory of Roero is spread over 20 communes (Sommariva Bosco, Sanfrè, Ceresole d’alba, Pocapaglia, Sommariva Perno, Baldissero D’alba, Montaldo Roero, Monteu Roero, Santo Stefano Roero, Montà, Cisterna d’Asti, Canale, Vezza d’Alba, Corneliano d’alba, Monticello, Santa Vittoria d’alba, Pollenzo, Castagnito, Priocca, Castellinaldo, Govone, Magliano Alfieri, Guarene) and lies to the north of Alba. Its landmark, the Tanaro river, lies to the west of Roero and marks its southern border, dividing it from the Langhe, while to the northeast Roero borders with the Monferrato.
The origins of the name Roero is believed to have originated from the ‘Roero’ family of bankers and traders, prominent in the political life of Asti and its environs, and who dominated this area for a number of centuries during the Middle Ages. Others say that Roero derives its name from Rovere (oak in Italian), which grows in Roero’s forests, such as the Rocche, characterized by steep gorges with abundant wildlife, birds and wild flowers.
Thanks to its many castles, many which date back some 1000 years, Roero shows all the true signs of an aristocratic region. Documents show that from the Middle Ages the territory of Roero belonged to the marquises of Asti and was ruled by the bishops of Asti. Today it is still possible to visit some of the castles, such as Castello di Montecello, still in pristine condition, and the Castello di Guarene, built by counts of Roero, still inhabited by the Counts of Guarene. These castle grounds and gardens are well worth a visit, offering spectacular views over Roero its hamlets and surrounding vineyards.
What impressed me most about Roero, among the obvious reasons of good food and wine, was the feeling of a landscape lost in time, its colourful market towns, such as Canale, which offer a variegated display of locally grown delicacies. West of the Rocche lies a large extension of agricultural land for the cultivation of fruit and vegetables, which have contributed throughout the centuries in creating a veritable paradise for Roero’s ‘epicurean’ life style!
Roero’s gastronomic culture, which is one of the most elaborate and varied in Piemonte is in part attributed to its feudal past, and thanks to the castles’ kitchens, which in the past worked around the clock baking bread and roasting game and foul over the spit. Traditionally rural in nature Roero developed a number of local delicacies, which during its feudal past adorned the tables of the local nobility and today the tables of the manyt excellent restaurants and trattorias.
There are a number of local foods with are special and unique to Roero, which fall under Slow Food’s ‘protection’ such as the peach variety known as ‘pesca Limunin’ from Canale, and the most exquisite local variety of pear ‘pera Madernassa’, from Guarene, in addition to excellent strawberries, asparagus, mushrooms, tinche and honey.
Among its culinary traditions is a special breed beef which originated from Guarene, known as the ‘Fassone’, best prepared in the local tradition, chopped finely and dressed with olive oil, a little lemon juice, salt and for those who like, a little garlic, served as an ‘antipasto.
In late summer/autumn, as early as September one can enjoy a unique early ripening variety of chestnut, known as ‘castagne della Madonna’ – excellent, simply roasted over the open fire, enjoyed with a good glass of Barbera or Bonarda. Autumn is also truffle season and Roero is home to the precious white truffle, which grated over a freshly prepared plate of handmade and home cooked ‘tajarin’ is one of Piedmont’s hard core dishes and one that is a must!
Maybe for this very reason the world famous organization Slow Food, which founded its headquarters in the village of Pollenzo, in the city of Bra, and a few years ago established the Slow Food Gastronomic University which today is housed in the castle in Pollenzo, built by Carlo Alberto of Savoia.
The history of Roero’s soils are of marine origin with plenty of fossils and can be traced back some millions of years, to the Pliocene age. They are predominantly a mix of sandy marl, limestone and calcareous clay. The soils are rich in calcium, phosphor, potassium ad other minerals and therefore very suitable for viticulture. Their natural sandy quality makes the soil soft and permeable, particularly suitable for white wines, allowing the wines to develop structure and elegance characterized by floral, fruity notes, as well as good minerality. Reds also thrives well where there is a predominance of marl and clay, which gives better structured to the wines, especially to Roero’s Barbera, which was planted more recently originating from the Monferrato area. Around Canale the soil is poorer so Nebbiolo does extremely well here.
Traditionally the red wines from Roero were considered lighter in character than those of the Langhe, showing a fruitier touch than the more structured Nebbiolo wines of the Langhe. More recently, and since Roero received its DOCG in 2005 its wines have become more compact and structured. Many, today are on a par with the more powerful Barbaresco and Barolos of the neighbouring Langhe.
Wine has always played an important part in Roero’s economy and its white varieties have always been prominent in Roero’s viticulture especially in the vicinity of Canale, Vezza and Corneliano, where the terrain is a relatively light, chalky-sandy ‘terra bianca’. The Arneis grape, which is naturally low yielding, is one of Piemonte’s most successful varieties if one considers that not so long ago, in 1970 there were barely 20 hectares of Arneis in Roero and today the plantings stand at over 500 hectares. Arneis in the dialect from Piemonte means “a little crazy”. Legend has it that it was given this name because the wine was somewhat difficult to produce and the annual production in the past was inconsistent.
Arneis’ importance was rewarded with vintage 2005 when it became a DOCG appellation. Traditionally Arenis was used to soften the harsher tannins in the Nebbiolo blend, a practice, which no longer takes place today. One of the first producers to concentrate wholeheartedly on the Arneis grape is the producer Cornarea. Thanks to Cornarea’s longsighted wisdom, Arneis has since developed into one of Piemonte’s most exciting indigenous grape varieties and one of Italy’s top white wines, appreciated for its unique range of aromas and flavours, as well as its versatility, which makes it easy to match most foods.
The best examples of Arneis are characterized by excellent freshness with a floral bouquet and hints of peach and hazelnuts, sustained by vibrant minerality. Some producers prefer to ferment it in steel and others to barrel ferment and produce a more opulent style, which is left in barrique until it is bottled. There is also a very good production of Roero Arneis Spumante DOCG, especially from the Deltetto estate and the Angelo Negri estate, two of the areas top producers.
Roero DOCG is made from the Nebbiolo grape and it is characterized by a fruity fragrance of red wooded berries and violets expressing great elegance. Like all good Nebbiolo wines it is structured and layered with complexity, needing optimum ripening conditions in order to soften its natural tannic structure. Above all Roero’s Nebbiolo goes very well with Roero’s rich and sophisticated cuisine, which includes game, pasta with gamey sauces, roasts and seasoned cheeses.
The area’s wealth of wines does not end here! Traditionally there were a number of indigenous varieties, which today are no longer prominent in Piemonte’s wines. What is still produced and part of the local tradition is the light and delicate white variety under the name of Favorita, quite a rarity today. In the reds you can drink some excellent light and fruity Bonarda, or a light bodied sparkling red Brachetto, with a distinctive strawberry character.
Wine Producers
Angelo Negro www.negroangelo.it
A 50 hectare estate owned by Angelo Negro and his son Audino Negro, situated in the hills between Monteu Roero and Canale in the small hamlet of S. Anna. Negro is one of the historic producers to believe in the potential of Arneis. Top labels include sparkling Roero Arneis Giovanni Negro Extra Brut, Roero Arneis Sette Anni and Roro Arneis Perdaudin. Top reds include, Roero Sudisfà.
Malvirà www.malvira.com
Historic Roero estate established in the 1950’s under the guidance of Giuseppe Damonte and today run by Guiseppe’s sons Massimo and Roberto Damonte, managing the vineyards and cellar. Top wines include: Roero Renesio Riserva, Roero Arneis Trinità Riserva and Roero Mombeltramo Riserva.
Correggia www.matteocorreggia.com
Today the 20 hectare estate is run by the late Matteo Correggia’s wife Ornella and considered one of the ‘founder’ producers of the area, excelling in the potential of Roero’s wine production. Top labels include Barbera d’Alba Marun, Langhe Rosso Le Marne Grigie and Roero Ròche d’Ampsèj Riserva, as well as Roero Arneis.
Deltetto www.deltetto.com
Since 1953 the Deltetto family has been producing high quality wines in the areas of Langhe and Roero. The family business is located in Canale and is run by Antonio Deltetto together with his wife Graziella, their son Carlo, and their daughters Cristina and Claudia. Top wines include: traditional red wines such as Roero Braja, Barolo Sistaglia, Barbera “Rocche delle Marasche” and Barbera Bramè. Whites include Arneis San Michele, Arneis Daivej and Favorita Sarvai. Also excellent sparkling Extra Brut Millesimato from Arneis and Rosè made from a blend of Nebbiolo and Pinot Nero.
Almondo di Montà www.giovannialmondo.com/
Situated in Montà d’Alba in Roero Giovanni Almondo is one of Roeor’s top vignerons producing terrific Roero Arneis Bricco delle Ciliegie from a former cherry orchard; hence the name, "hill of the cherries. Also very good partly barrel fermented Arneis Sparse. In the reds top label is Roero Bric Valdiana and Roero Giovanni Almodo Riserva.
Cascina Cà Rossa www.cascinacarossa.com
A 15 hectare estate in Canale owned by Angelo Ferrio with an excellent organic production of Roero Audinaggio – fine example of Roero’s nebbilo grape, as well as, Roero Mompissano Riserva and Barbera d’Alba Mulassa.
Cornarea www.cornarea.com
A family run estate set in a beautiful villa belonging to the Govone family overlooking the Cornorea hillside, with a longstanding production of elegant Nebbiolo Roero docg wines and mineral Arneis docg, as well as Passito Tarasco.
Ghiomo www.ghiomo.it
Guseppino Anfossi’s family estate situated in Guarene, right in the heart of the Roero area is just 3 kms from Alba. The production includes solid and reliable Nebbiolo, Barbera and Arneis. Their top wine “Ruit Hora”, a blend of Barbera and Nebbiolo is a barrique-aged showing plenty of fruit and a hint of spice, made only in top vintages showing elegance and complexity.
Wine & Food
Piedmontese cooking, like robust red wine, comes into its own in
the autumn. Hearty and traditional, refined country cooking that follows the seasons, and autumn provides the bounty. There is game from the mountainsides; hams, cheeses, and salami matured to perfection, and a bright array of garden vegetables augmented by what is found in the woods and fields. The multitude of antipasti, the ample pastas and risottos, thick soups and stews, roast and boiled meats are the kind of fare that requires distinctive white wines to generous red wines. But the heartiness can be deceptive, for Piedmontese cooking also has plenty of touches of grace. The ultimate luxury is the white truffle, sniffed out by dogs in the Roero and shaved raw over pastas, risottos, meats, and fondues. Some of the best restaurants are found where the best wines are. The best time to visit is when the grapes and truffles are coming in.
Bagna caôda “Hot bath” of oil, garlic, and anchovies, bubbling over a burner, into which raw vegetables – such as peppers, cardoons, fennel, celery, etc. – are dipped.
Crudo di Vitella ‘Fassone’ battuta col coltello- finely chopped lean, raw veal, seasoned with salt, pepper, lemon juice and olive oil. Optional addition of garlic.
Vitello Tonnato- thinly cut rosy veal with a tuna fish, anchovy and caper mayonnaise – the meat used is from the Lissone breed.
Agnolotti Piemontesi – square hand made pasta filled with rabbit, veal, pork and some cabbage.
Ravioli del Plin very small hand made pasta filled with veal, egg and cheese.
Tajarin al tartufo Hand-cut egg noodles with butter, Parmesan, and shaved truffles.
Fonduta di Toma con uovo e tartufo – Fondu of cheese with a poached egg and plenty of white truffle shavings.
Le ‘tinche’ di Ceresole – a very delicate fish which can be fished from the ponds around the countryside. Best fried or marinated in wine.
Fritto misto or fricia Delicacies – brains, sweetbreads, lamb cutlets, chicken breasts, aubergines, courgettes, frogs’ legs, sweet pastes, etc. – dipped in batter and fried.
Brasato al Barolo Beef stewed very slowly in Barolo.
Bollito misto piemontese Boiled veal and beef with bagnet piemontese (a garlicky green sauce).
Formaggi con Cugnà d’Uva Moscato – mixed cheeses accompanied by a compote made of cooked most and seasonal fruit.
Pere madernassa al vino – special madernassa pears coocked in Barbera or Arneis with spices (cinnamon, cloves), served cold as a dessert
Zabaglione Egg yolks whipped with marsala, other sweet wine, or Barolo.
Restaruants
Davide Palluda www.davidepalluda.it
Situated in the Enoteca Regionale in Canale
Io e La Luna www.ioeluna.com
Situated in Guarene
Leon d’Oro www.leondoro.it/
Situated in Canale
Osteria la Madernassa www.osterialamadernassa.it
Situated in Guarene
Il Centro www.ristoranteilcentro.com
Situated in Priocca D’Alba
Trattoria
Ostu djun Castagnito,
Situated in Castagnito 0173 213600
Il Bric di Castagnito
Situated in Castagnito 173 211167
Trattoria cantina dei Cacciatori
Situated in Monteu Roero, 0173 90815
Hotels
Casa Lora Guarene www.casalora.it
Bed & Breakfast situated in Localita’ Lora, 3 – Castelrotto
Villa Tiboldi in Canale www.villatiboldi.it.
Agriturismo located amongst the vineyards
Villa Cornarea Canale www.villacornarea.com/
Liberty style residence immersed in a lush green
For more info on Roero and its wines contact:
Enoteca Regionale di Canale www.enotecadelroero.it
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